Pallet Board Remover:-)


Pallet Board Remover:-)

First.. this wasn't my invention!.. if you have a look on You tube there is a heaps of different designs, mind was based on this one..

Looking around in my steel rack, i found plenty of heavy duty galvanized pipe, and since i was itching to use my new bi metal hole saw set... it was fate...:-)

For all those skilled craftsmen metal workers.. and welders... i prostrate my self in front of your wisdom...:-) but let it be known i am not one of you...

What i used;

  • 1200mm x 48 mm Galvanized pipe
  • 400mm x 35mm Galvanized pipe
  • Stick welder
  • Grinder
  • Safety gear: Respirator mask - for grinding and welding, ear protectors & face shield - drilling, Welding gloves and apron
  • Drill press, secure vice & cutting lube
  • Metal cutting lube
  • Bi metal hole saws ( x )
  • Pilot drills
  • Center punch
  • square, ruler and pen, Digital vernier calipers
  • Bench vice
  • level
  • tool stand

Step 1:


The exact dimensions are going to depend on the width of the boards on pallets in your area.. and your desired leverage, so long as the base pipe ( and ergo the handle are 1.5-2 x that of the forks.

  1. I took the 1400mm of 48 mm Diameter and Cut off 200mm, this will be the "base"
  2. The remainder 1200mm, becomes the handle - i decided to make mine long because i am tall and so figured i could enjoy a bit more leverage ( and cut off what i didn't need once i've used it..)
  3. Then cutting the 35mm pipe in halve to form 2 x 200m lengths - these will be the "forks"

(Diagram (1))

Step 2:

Preparation Base

Take the base pipe;

  1. Look inside the pipe and find the "join line" and transfer its location onto the outside of the pipe using the pen and ruler to create a center line.
  2. Using the calipers i transferred the radius of the smaller pipe(17mm) in from both ends of the base pipe along the center line creating mark (a)
  3. From (a) i used the square to project the same radius away from the perpendicularly away from the centre line ( b) - repeating from the other end of the base pipe. (Diagram (2))
  4. Placed the base pipe in a vice, centre punch both (b) points.
  5. Then placing the base pipe in the drill press vice, drill a pilot holes in the (b) centres, and continue to enlarge the holes until they are within 0.5mm of the diameter of the hole saw pilot drill.
  6. Using the matching hole saw, and a low drill press speed with plenty of lube fluid, cut a hole in each end.(wooohoo this was the exciting bit with the new tool... i have circles to go now!)
  7. Placing the base pipe back in the vice, i grind off all the galvanizing around both holes, put an angle on the hole edges ready for welding, and clean up any sharp edges.

Step 3:

Prepartion: Handle & Forks

The Handle;

  1. I found the centre line for the pipe as above.
  2. Measured bout 25 mm in from the end and centre punched the mark (Diagram 3 (c)) and drew a centre line through the point.
  3. Put the handle in to the drill vice, with the other end up on the tool rest and makes sure its level.
  4. Drill a pilot hill through both sides of the pipe at the centre, continue to enlarge the holes until they are within 0.5mm of the holesaw pilot bit.
  5. Matching the holesaw to the diameter of the handle pipe, i cut out one side of the pipe on the center. (Diagram 4)
  6. Then i turned the handle over, and cut the opposite side at the pilot centre.
  7. Back in to the bench vice, i measured 10 mm past the centre line of the hole id just drilled and cut off the pipe end - creating slightly less then halve a circle in the end of the handle that matches the curve of the base. (Diagram 5)+ (Diagram 5 (b))
  8. Then grind off the galvanizing and put the angle on for welding, and clean up any sharp edges

The Forks;

Not much here but to plonk them in the vice, grind off the galvinizing 0-50mm from one end for welding for good contact while welding, grind off a spot of galv near the ends - for the earth clamp and then round off all sharp edges.

Step 4:


This is not and Comment/How-to about welding ...and my welding is "functional" to say the least!...BUT: to please wear a welding rated respirator mask.. because in my line of work i see all those people who didnt.. its not prettyThen

The base

  1. I plonked the base on the floor - pushed the two Forks into their respective holes until they hit the back wall of the base pipe.
  2. Placed some welding magnets in the right angles - check they are square, and the checked the distance between the forks was what i chosen.150mm)(Diagram 6)
  3. Then tack weld each fork in place so i could then rotate every thing to the angle i weld best at..

The handle

  1. With the base and fork sitting flat on the floor, i placed the cut out end of the handle on the center of the base, between the forks.(by eye)
  2. Angling it back away from the forks,(Diagram 7) as suggested in the video i had watched (see link at start) to assist with leverage advantage.. and tack welded, before re positioning to weld right the way around it ( probably over kill:-)

Step 5:


  1. Merely slot the forks down between the boards either side of the beams underneath and "activate" the handle..
  2. I find the bulk of the time... i prefer to put the breaker in on the opposite side of the board i want to lift from me, and then push up on the handle.
  3. Switching to standing on the same side for end boards... first i start with the centre nails and then work outwards the outside.. it doesn't take long before you get the hang of it..


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